Planning a running holiday? The Northern Drakensberg’s myriad mountain trails, spectacular views, crisp mountain air, and warm hospitality make it one of the world’s highest-rated physical tourism regions. And it’s an easy drive from most of South Africa’s major population centres. – By Warren King

The Drakensberg Mountains form the spine of South Africa, stretching from Mpumalanga to the Western Cape. They boast the kind of terrain that the very inventors of trail running must have had in mind when they first decided to venture off the tar. Conveniently located within easy weekend-driving distance from Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga and the Free State, and offering a host of other activities besides trail running, it’s the ideal holiday destination for everyone, runners and non-runners alike.

Pick a spot, and start running: it’s as simple as that. There are trails everywhere, and even where there aren’t, there’s nothing as invigorating as bundu-bashing through the Drakensberg bush. It’s high enough to be tricky and require your utmost concentration, yet low enough to run on.

That being said, there are two things to keep in mind: firstly, trail running is, by definition, not a risk-free activity. As any trail runner will tell you, anything can happen – and it usually does. So avoid running alone, or in remote areas where nobody knows where you are, or might be, should you not return. For those adventurous enough to go it alone anyway, make sure you’re prepared.

Survival Essentials

• A hydration pack, with extra water
• Emergency snacks
• Warmer (and ideally, waterproof) clothing, irrespective of the weather forecast – these are the mountains, where conditions can change rapidly.
• A headlamp
• A cell phone. (Although remote, and lacking in cell-phone towers, the area is pretty well covered.)

Secondly, remember that this is South Africa. Unlike in England, the concept of “universal access” doesn’t exist, so if you run on private property without permission, that’s classed as trespassing. But there are more than enough trails outside of private property, of all shapes and sizes, to keep you busy for a lifetime. Each hotel and resort will point out nearby routes. For the most sublime options, I’d recommend heading to the All Out Adventures Centre, based at the Drakensberg’s thrilling heart, or into the Royal Natal National Park itself.

All Out Adventures maintains and operates a comprehensive network of mountain-biking and trail-running trails, which extend across the entire region. The Centre is headed by proprietors Chris and Loretta – also co-organisers of the annual Runtheberg Trail Run – who can advise you on how to mix and match a variety of trails to build your ideal route; from short, non-technical and flat, to technical ultra distances with huge vertical-elevation gains and losses. They’ll also equip you with handy maps.
In the National Park, don’t expect the same level of advice or support.

But you can pick up a free hiker’s map at the Visitors Centre, and make your own trail runs out of the existing hiking trails. For example, the Policeman’s Helmet Hike makes for a fantastic, varied trail run, featuring a mixture of everything. An added bonus: it’s an out-and-back trail, so if you get tired or run out of time, you can turn back at any point. The full trail, from the car park to the top of the Helmet and back, is roughly 12 kilometres, and should take the average runner at least two hours. Alternatively, the famous Crack & Mudslide Hike makes for a properly challenging trail, incorporating steep and slippery sections, chain ladders, and great technical running for experienced runners. Expect 12 to15 kilometres of running that will take the average runner at least three and half hours to complete.

Please note: in the tradition of trail running, times and distances given here should be used as broad indicators, rather than exact specifications. Don’t rely on free maps for exact times and distances, as at the time I last visited, some of the trails (specifically Policeman’s Helmet) were dramatically inaccurate.
Lastly, remember you’re sharing the trails with others. Always give hikers and walkers the right of way. Also, remember that many of them will probably be foreign visitors, so do try to impress them with our typical South African etiquette, friendliness and hospitality.

Mountain Biking
Many trail runners are also passionate about mountain biking, or at least have partners or family members who love to pedal. You can hire a bike from All Out Adventures, and Chris and Loretta’s team are on hand to give you expert advice on aspects like trails and conditions. Or you can bring your own bike, and follow one of their maps. Trails are graded from Beginner to Black Diamond equivalent, and you’ll need to purchase a trail pass if you want to ride on them, either from the Centre, or from most resorts.

Other Adventures
Besides horse riding, which is offered at most hotels, another way to experience the thrill of the mountains is to avail yourself of a range of stomach-flipping, eye-watering adrenaline activities: zip lining and cable tours, the Bungee Bounce, flying trapeze, quad biking, paintball, and the King Swing, guaranteed to make even the most hardened adventurer squeal a little.

Accommodation

Visitors to the Drakensberg are always surprised at the range and quality of accommodation. Too numerous to list them all – I’ll mention just a handful of well-known spots.

Camping
Where better to pitch your tent and braai than in the heart of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Royal Natal National Park? The Park’s Mahai and Rugged Glen campsites have to be two of the best places in the world to sleep under the stars. There are electricity points aplenty (for those that need them), and the ablution facilities are as good as they get.

Family-friendly
ATKV Drakensville has fun facilities and self-catering capacity. The Cavern, nestled below the Little ’Berg at the end of the road, offers a convenient baby-sitting service, and the buffet is the stuff of legend. The Three Cities Alpine Health Resort, Orion Mont-Aux-Sources Hotel and long-standing favourite, Little Switzerland, are also great options.

Luxury
In my opinion, beautiful, remote, mountain destinations don’t generally go well with upmarket, luxury accommodation; but Montusi Mountain Lodge is the exception. It’s perfectly positioned, with sweeping views of the magnificent Amphitheatre, easy access to the National Park, and fantastic trails that start and finish at your doorstep. This is the ideal place to impress your new trail-running girlfriend, or reward your hiking husband. And there’s nothing quite like hitting the trails hard, before heading back to the Lodge to indulge in outstanding fare, prepared daily by Montusi’s world-class chefs, and then crashing in a luxury chalet.

Eating Out

Most visitors tend to eat at their accommodation, so stand-alone restaurants that serve walk-in guests are few and far between. But the experience of a proudly owner-operated restaurant is worth the short, scenic drive.

Tower Of Pizza
Another Northern-Drakensberg culinary legend of note, Tower of Pizza is perfectly positioned on the tributary road to the heart of the mountains and the Park. No trip to the area is complete without eating at the Tower. Like it says on the tin, this is a family restaurant that specialises in expertly-baked pizzas, all named after local mountains and hikes. The menu, broad enough to satisfy parent and child alike, also features delicious pastas, tramezzini, salads and famous lamb chops. All major credit cards are accepted, but it’s worthwhile noting they don’t accept cash.

The Phatt Chef
A visit to Simon’s award-winning establishment is a must. It’s located at the top of the Oliviershoek pass on the R74, a road from the bottom to the top of the pass that has been fixed up and is now a scenic delight to drive. Steaks are the worthy speciality, paired with delicious sides and unique sauces. Having said that, the menu does include some interesting vegetarian alternatives. A tip: find a designated driver to take you back down the pass after you’ve eaten, because you won’t want to miss sampling the extensive wine list. The Phatt Cheff is also a convenient stop either on the way in, or on the way home, from Gauteng and all points north – especially if you’ve had enough of roadside fast food.

Bingelela
One of those rare gems, boasting a mind-bogglingly broad menu, and the quality of delivery of each and every menu item far surpasses most big-city standards. Authentic Thai curries, steakhouse-quality steaks, thin-crust pizzas cooked to perfection, and speciality dishes including calamari steak, chicken roulade and locally-bought ’Berg trout. Top it off with a decadent dessert and a perfect espresso.
Just off the R74, on the way to Bergville, Bingelela is well worth the easy 20-minute drive. A reward for a hard day’s mountain touring, and/or to fill up for the next one.

Whether you’re an ultra champion in search of technical altitude training, a road-runner looking for a break from the tar, or a remote-control expert simply looking to get off the couch, the Northern Drakensberg should be right up there on your bucket list.

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