Chocolate-box cities and European history, revealed on the run. – By Ryan Scott

NAME: Ryan Scott
AGE: 41
PROFESSION: Runner’s World Gear Editor

When I had the opportunity to visit Switzerland, on two separate occasions during the cold winter months of December and January, my first thought was not of fondue, chocolate, or skiing; it was of what it would be like to run on the streets of Zürich, Lucerne, Bern, Gstaad and Montreux. The intimacy and freedom of discovering a new city in a pair of running shoes has always been my favourite way to explore.

Every large city in Switzerland is built around a lake, whose banks and majestic stone bridges are integrated into the city’s layout. Even in the dead of winter, the streets are alive; locals and tourists alike stroll, browse markets, and commute from place to place, alongside the clear water.

Travel Hub

Zürich is one of Europe’s major travel hubs. I first tasted fresh, winter air shortly after arriving at Zürich Hauptbahnhof, the largest train station in the country. I stashed my bag in a locker at the station, and headed out along one of the purpose-built running and walking paths that flank the water’s edge.

It was lunchtime, and I had plenty of company; runners in their 30s and 40s – probably bankers – training in temperatures not much over zero degrees.

I enjoyed the cold, because I had dressed sufficiently: a couple of layers, a beanie, some gloves and a pair of tights.

I geared up right for every run I did in Switzerland – except for the time I stopped at the Christmas market in Montreux for a little longer than expected, to sample the delicious glühwein. As my body temperature dropped, due to lack of movement, I consumed more of the spicy mulled wine to warm it back up again. But the cup served to warm only my hands, so I decided to cut my run short, and take a jolly Christmas bus ride back to my hotel. On the bus, I peered out of the window. Paul Kruger spent his latter years living on one of these grand streets, and Nelson Mandela was a regular visitor.

I spent at least two hours exploring Zürich. First, I meandered along the lakeside, and then I crossed a bridge into the old city – whose charm and mysterious grandeur pulled me effortlessly into a dream of what life must’ve been like in days gone by.

Most streets are cobbled, and sometimes steep enough to warrant a sunken staircase. I pictured the fat royalty of old, venturing out of their turreted castles to mix with their subjects. Today’s rigid city grids are devoid of any of this charming luxury; that’s precisely what makes running in an old European city so special, compared with anywhere else in the world.

Centuries of thoughtful masonry have endured both time and the footfalls of increasing populations,
to be appreciated by all. Today’s Zürich is quite crowded; nevertheless, navigating the streets is made easy by slow-moving trams, which act as a buffer against fast-paced motor traffic.

Making An Impression

Next stop: Lucerne – a quaint city, with a population of over 78 000. Towers and fourteenth-century wall fortifications on the hills are ideal landmarks by which to establish your bearings.

No matter where you begin your run, you’ll probably be drawn to the storybook-like spire of the tower, and the Kapellbrücke bridge. Considered an icon, the crooked wooden structure has been restored, after a devastating fire in 1993. It’s fun to run over the wooden panels, and listen to the clank clank sound. The Swiss don’t mind the noise: although they appear stoic, they’re actually quite friendly, and more willing to share a joke than you might think.

No Jokes

The joke was on me when, on the way to Bern, I was told that bears used to roam the streets. At first I didn’t believe it, but then I went running. Everywhere I looked, there was some sort of bear motif: on statues, flags, engravings, street signs, manholes, tattoos, graffiti and posters. Turns out it’s true; at one point the furry mammals did live among the locals. Though nowadays, they’re safely enclosed in a city park, where people can visit them.

Bern is also home to the Swiss parliament. The day I ran in Bern, I cruised right past the Confoederatio Helvetica – that’s where Switzerland got the country code ‘CH’ from – and a new minister was being sworn in. I almost stepped on the new politician’s toes as I ran past. What a novel and relaxed approach, to have zero security!

The old city of Bern – surrounded on three sides by the Aare river, and a UNESCO world heritage site – is well suited to running. There’s a huge running population, of all levels of experience, who train in all conditions, all year round.

Say It Out Loud

I moved on to the ski-resort town of Gstaad, to experience the Alpine air. I loved saying its name out loud, and it fast became my favourite ski-resort town to run in. With a pair of waterproof shoes, I ran endless kilometres on the crunchy snow, next to yet another river.

The bottom line: what you see is what makes Switzerland such an epic country to run in – and there are myriad running options. Visiting the CH? Pack your running shoes.

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