Fish River Canyon, Namibia

Photographs & words by…
Jacques Marais

Runner…
Peter Kirk

GPS LOCATION
Ai-Ais Resort:
27°55’43”S 17°29’0”E
Hobas: 27°37’11.1”S 17°42’54.”E

TERRAIN

The Fish River Canyon is a geological wonderland; made up of contorted sandstone, shale and lava, it dates back more than 800 million years. Expect loose, sharp rocks, and take extra care on the edge of the 500-metre-deep ravine.

GRADIENT

/Ai/Ais (meaning ‘hot-hot’ or ‘ouch-ouch’ in Khoi. – Ed) is short, sharp and steep, and the 5.6-kilometre, out-and-back run could easily take a couple of hours. The trail is loose underfoot, and if you do happen to wander off it, expect to scramble. Less experienced trail runners can follow a 4×4 track from Hobas, though at times the terrain is gnarly.

BEST TIME TO RUN

Southern Namibia can be a bit of a meteorological enigma – freezing at night, and on fire during the day – but that’s the nature of the desert. Avoid sunstroke and dehydration by running early, especially during the mid-summer months. Always pack ample water, wear UV-protective clothing, and make sure someone knows your route and estimated time of arrival.

DURATION

You’ll run for around two hours on the /Ai/Ais loop. There are further opportunities to explore the surrounding peaks, or run alongside the river. The 20-kilometre return, on the viewpoint road, will take two hours, and the complete 28-kilometre circuit will take three to four hours (For more information, visit nwr.com.na).

REFUEL AT

Hobas has a basic shop; but if you want something completely different, about 20 minutes’ drive away you’ll encounter the surreal – and incredibly funky – Canyon Road House. Here you’ll find everything from German strudel and beer on tap to an above-average cappuccino. /Ai/Ais boasts a restaurant, bar, spa complex, and a range of other amenities. Camping and self-catering accommodation is available.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

The popular #DesertKnights MTB Tour starts at Hobas twice a year, but you can ride the gritty 28-kilometre route – which leads from the campsite to the edge of the Canyon – at any time (For tour information, visit desertknights-mtb.com).

Hobas is where the four-day Fish River Hiking Trail begins, too; but there are also lots of day hikes and walks, both from there and from /Ai/Ais. A tip: take your binoculars, as there are myriad species of mammals, birds, insects and reptiles.

THE EXPERIENCE

Countless eons have seen the eponymous river gouge a 161-kilometre-long ravine into the ancient Namaland bedrock, stretching all the way from beyond Hobas to the /Ai/Ais Resort. The 90-kilometre Fish River Canyon hiking trail follows the watercourse, and in itself has become one of southern Africa’s premier hiking destinations.

This is a place where #FKT (fastest known time. – Ed) dreams are attempted, and often dashed. But few visitors to Namibia realise the extent of the trails on offer. Two of which are very easy: there’s one from Hobas, at the very beginning of the Canyon, and another at the laid-back mineral-springs resort of /Ai/Ais.

GETTING THERE

The most popular entry point into Namibia is via Vioolsdrift. From here, follow the B1 for 41 kilometres, before turning left onto the D316. After driving a further 72 kilometres, turn left on the C10/M97, until you reach /Ai/Ais around 10 kilometres later. The route to Hobas bears right on the D324 for 42 kilometres, then left on the D601 for a further two kilometres, to campsite reception.

READ MORE ON: travel